Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is hydroxyacetic acid, the smallest alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). Most commercial material is made synthetically, for example by carbonylation of formaldehyde, and some suppliers offer grades made by fermentation. It is sold mainly as a 70% aqueous solution, with crystalline grades also available. Cosmetic grades are purified to keep formaldehyde, formic acid and color low, and buyers set the acid level and final product pH together.
Suppliers sell different products under the same name. Specify the one you need.
Aqueous solution at about 70%, purified for skin care with low formaldehyde and color; the most common form.
Lower-purity solution for cleaning and industrial uses, with higher impurity limits that make it unsuitable for skin care.
Solid glycolic acid of 99% or higher purity, used where water must be kept out of a formula.
Glycolic acid pre-buffered with ammonium or sodium hydroxide to a set pH, sold to simplify pH adjustment.
Compare each result with your own specification when the lot arrives.
Store glycolic acid solution in its original corrosion-resistant container (HDPE or lined drums) at room temperature, away from bases, oxidizers and reactive metals. Very cold storage can cause crystallization in concentrated solutions. Shelf life and retest intervals come from the supplier specification.
Record the assay, formaldehyde result and color for each lot, since impurity levels differ between suppliers and grades. Confirm the grade on the COA matches the cosmetic grade ordered.
Facts from regulators and standards bodies, each linked to its source.
Health Canada's Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist lists glycolic acid under alpha-hydroxy acids, limited in consumer skin products to 3% to 18% total mono-AHA equivalents at a pH of 3.5 or higher.
Source: canada.ca (opens in a new tab)FDA's page on alpha hydroxy acids recommends that topically applied cosmetics containing an AHA carry a Sunburn Alert statement.
Source: fda.gov (opens in a new tab)The same FDA page reports the CIR Expert Panel concluded glycolic and lactic acid products are safe for consumers at 10 percent AHA or less and a final pH of 3.5 or greater, with sun protection in the formula or directions.
Source: fda.gov (opens in a new tab)This is general information, not regulatory advice. Status differs by country and by how the ingredient is used, so check the rules for your product and market.
Manufacturers and distributors whose own websites say they sell it.
Distributor · Redmond, WA
US supplier of cosmetic ingredients repackaged in retail and bulk sizes, covering actives, butters, oils, waxes and emulsifiers for brands, contract manufacturers and independent formulators.
Suppliers are in alphabetical order and none pays to appear. Each claim is checked against the supplier’s own website on the date shown. Ask for the specification sheet and a recent COA before you order, and confirm details with the supplier.
Common forms include 70% solution, cosmetic grade, technical grade solution, crystalline glycolic acid and partly neutralized blends. Ask each supplier for the specification sheet of the exact grade they quote.
Expect assay (titration), formaldehyde and formic acid, color (APHA), iron and heavy metals and specific gravity, each with its method, specification and result for that lot.
Store glycolic acid solution in its original corrosion-resistant container (HDPE or lined drums) at room temperature, away from bases, oxidizers and reactive metals. Very cold storage can cause crystallization in concentrated solutions. Shelf life and retest intervals come from the supplier specification.
Health Canada's Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist lists glycolic acid under alpha-hydroxy acids, limited in consumer skin products to 3% to 18% total mono-AHA equivalents at a pH of 3.5 or higher. FDA's page on alpha hydroxy acids recommends that topically applied cosmetics containing an AHA carry a Sunburn Alert statement. The same FDA page reports the CIR Expert Panel concluded glycolic and lactic acid products are safe for consumers at 10 percent AHA or less and a final pH of 3.5 or greater, with sun protection in the formula or directions.
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