Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is nonanedioic acid, a straight-chain C9 dicarboxylic acid. It is made industrially by ozonolysis of oleic acid from vegetable or animal fats, followed by purification, and is sold as a white crystalline powder. It dissolves poorly in water and most cosmetic oils, so formulators suspend it as a fine powder or use soluble derivatives such as potassium azeloyl diglycinate. Pharmacopeial grades exist for drug products.
Suppliers sell different products under the same name. Specify the one you need.
High-purity crystalline azelaic acid made to a pharmacopeial monograph, used in drug products and premium cosmetics.
Lower-specification material; technical grades are made for polymers and lubricants and are not suitable for skin care.
Finely milled azelaic acid for smooth suspensions in creams and gels; particle size is part of the spec.
Potassium azeloyl diglycinate and similar water-soluble derivatives, separate ingredients with their own INCI names.
Compare each result with your own specification when the lot arrives.
Azelaic acid is stable; store it in a closed container in a cool, dry place away from strong oxidizers and bases. Micronized grades can cake in humid conditions, so reseal after use. Shelf life and retest dates come from the supplier.
Record the assay, related acids and particle size for each lot, since texture in the finished product depends on particle size. Keep pharmacopeial and technical grades apart.
Facts from regulators and standards bodies, each linked to its source.
Health Canada's Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist restricts azelaic acid and its salts (including disodium and dipotassium azelate) in cosmetics to a maximum concentration of 14%.
Source: canada.ca (opens in a new tab)This is general information, not regulatory advice. Status differs by country and by how the ingredient is used, so check the rules for your product and market.
Manufacturers and distributors whose own websites say they sell it.
Distributor · Blue Bell, PA
Sells it as Matrilox CA001M
Pennsylvania distributor of oleochemicals and personal care ingredients, including castor products, fatty alcohols, esters, glycerin and natural oils and butters.
Suppliers are in alphabetical order and none pays to appear. Each claim is checked against the supplier’s own website on the date shown. Ask for the specification sheet and a recent COA before you order, and confirm details with the supplier.
Common forms include pharmacopeial grade powder, cosmetic or technical grade, micronized powder and soluble derivatives. Ask each supplier for the specification sheet of the exact grade they quote.
Expect assay (titration), related dicarboxylic acids (GC or HPLC), melting range and identity, particle size and heavy metals and residue on ignition, each with its method, specification and result for that lot.
Azelaic acid is stable; store it in a closed container in a cool, dry place away from strong oxidizers and bases. Micronized grades can cake in humid conditions, so reseal after use. Shelf life and retest dates come from the supplier.
Health Canada's Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist restricts azelaic acid and its salts (including disodium and dipotassium azelate) in cosmetics to a maximum concentration of 14%.
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