Alpha-arbutin
Alpha-arbutin is 4-hydroxyphenyl alpha-D-glucopyranoside, a glucoside of hydroquinone. Unlike beta-arbutin, which occurs in bearberry and other plant leaves, alpha-arbutin is made by enzymatic glycosylation of hydroquinone with a sugar donor such as dextrin or sucrose, then purified and crystallized. It is sold as a white, water-soluble powder. Because it is made from hydroquinone and can release it, residual and free hydroquinone is the key quality point.
Suppliers sell different products under the same name. Specify the one you need.
Purified alpha-arbutin, typically specified at 97 to 99% or higher, the standard form for skin care.
Grades with tighter limits on free hydroquinone, stated in ppm on the COA.
Alpha-arbutin dissolved in water or glycol with preservatives at a stated percentage.
Compare each result with your own specification when the lot arrives.
Store alpha-arbutin tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from light; heat, moisture and high pH can hydrolyze it and raise free hydroquinone. Shelf life is set by the supplier, and older lots should be retested for hydroquinone before use.
Record the assay and free hydroquinone of every lot and reject lots above your specification limit. Rotate oldest first, since hydroquinone can rise with age.
Facts from regulators and standards bodies, each linked to its source.
In its 2015 opinion SCCS/1552/15, the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considered alpha-arbutin (CAS 84380-01-8) safe in cosmetic products at up to 2% in face creams and 0.5% in body lotions.
Source: ec.europa.eu (opens in a new tab)The same opinion notes that combined use of alpha-arbutin with other hydroquinone-releasing substances was not evaluated.
Source: ec.europa.eu (opens in a new tab)The opinion describes the assessed alpha-arbutin as a synthetic substance produced by enzymatic glycosylation of hydroquinone, with purity specified as 97% or higher.
Source: ec.europa.eu (opens in a new tab)This is general information, not regulatory advice. Status differs by country and by how the ingredient is used, so check the rules for your product and market.
Manufacturers and distributors whose own websites say they sell it.
Distributor · Eastsound, WA
Washington State seller of cosmetic raw materials in small and bulk sizes, including actives, butters, waxes, emollients, emulsifiers and preservatives, for independent formulators and small brands.
Distributor · Redmond, WA
US supplier of cosmetic ingredients repackaged in retail and bulk sizes, covering actives, butters, oils, waxes and emulsifiers for brands, contract manufacturers and independent formulators.
Suppliers are in alphabetical order and none pays to appear. Each claim is checked against the supplier’s own website on the date shown. Ask for the specification sheet and a recent COA before you order, and confirm details with the supplier.
Common forms include crystalline powder, low-hydroquinone grades and pre-dissolved solutions. Ask each supplier for the specification sheet of the exact grade they quote.
Expect assay (HPLC), free hydroquinone (HPLC), optical rotation, loss on drying and heavy metals and arsenic, each with its method, specification and result for that lot.
Store alpha-arbutin tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from light; heat, moisture and high pH can hydrolyze it and raise free hydroquinone. Shelf life is set by the supplier, and older lots should be retested for hydroquinone before use.
In its 2015 opinion SCCS/1552/15, the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considered alpha-arbutin (CAS 84380-01-8) safe in cosmetic products at up to 2% in face creams and 0.5% in body lotions. The same opinion notes that combined use of alpha-arbutin with other hydroquinone-releasing substances was not evaluated. The opinion describes the assessed alpha-arbutin as a synthetic substance produced by enzymatic glycosylation of hydroquinone, with purity specified as 97% or higher.
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